Iconic wines are often the result of deep love stories with the land—and Ben Ryé is a shining example. This renowned Sicilian Passito is far more than a dessert wine: it is the delicious product of decades of passion, tradition, and a profound respect for the volcanic soils of Pantelleria. The adventure began with Giacomo Rallo, whose hunting trips to this wild island between Africa and Italy eventually blossomed into a love for the sea, its rugged landscapes, and its ancient winemaking heritage. Every sip of Ben Ryé captures the very spirit of Pantelleria: sun-dried grapes, marine breezes, and the essence of volcanic earth—brought to life by the dedication of the Rallo family.
The Rallo family was already renowned in Sicily for their Marsala and Passito wines, with roots in Pantelleria dating back to the 1950s. The creation of Cantine Donnafugata marked a new era, forging a lasting bond with this rugged Sicilian island. From hunting rabbits to truly understanding Pantelleria’s agricultural heart, the Rallo family has poured their expertise and respect for nature into every grape and every bottle of Ben Ryé.
The Birth of a Legend: The Ben Ryé Journey
Antonio Rallo, now the passionate General Manager of Donnafugata, grew up among the vineyards and alongside the first vintages of Ben Ryé, released in 1989. His hands-on, heartfelt approach has shaped the wine’s unique character. He rarely calls Ben Ryé his favorite—out of respect for Donnafugata’s other labels—but his connection to this wine is unmistakable. It reflects his affection for Pantelleria and its dramatic contrasts. “Pantelleria is an island that either captures your heart or overwhelms you. For me, it was love at first sight.”
The Rallo family’s move to Pantelleria was almost fate. Initially, their sights were set on Mount Etna, but a major eruption redirected them to this windswept island. There, they undertook a massive restoration of ancient dry-stone walls and vineyards—rejuvenating 40 kilometers of land. Before the state-of-the-art winery in Khamma (2006), all supplies had to be shipped from Contessa Entellina, a logistical feat that only strengthened their resolve. In the early days, Passito was a hidden gem, so the Rallo family tirelessly promoted Ben Ryé worldwide, gifting bottles to build global recognition. Their tenacity built the foundation for Ben Ryé’s future as an international benchmark for sweet wines.
A Sweet Wine That Surprises Every Palate
The story of Ben Ryé is rooted in resilience—of both the land and its people. In 1999, Donnafugata revived a historic Zibibbo vineyard, home to ancient, ungrafted vines that survived the phylloxera epidemic and have thrived for over a century. These vines, firmly anchored in volcanic soil, show remarkable resistance to drought, limestone, and salinity, producing grapes of exceptional depth and balance. In 2010, Donnafugata added 33 new biotypes of Zibibbo from across the Mediterranean—Spain, France, Greece, and Southern Italy—creating a living mosaic of unique flavors and aromas.
Simultaneously, the team began restoring centuries-old Biancolilla olive trees, another symbol of Pantelleria’s agricultural heritage. Today, the Donnafugata estate covers 68 hectares across 14 districts, with vineyards ranging from 20 to 400 meters above sea level. This diversity allows for staggered harvests, capturing a wide range of acidity and sugar in the grapes. The result is a wine of remarkable harmony: Ben Ryé Passito boasts up to 200 grams of sugar per liter, yet its vibrant acidity keeps every sip fresh and lively. The intense aromas of sun-dried raisins are perfectly balanced by the citrusy and floral notes of Moscato di Alessandria, creating a dessert wine that delights the palate without ever feeling heavy or cloying.
Heroic Viticulture: The Human Heart of Ben Ryé
Crafting Ben Ryé is a labor of love and endurance—true heroic viticulture. On Pantelleria, vineyards are cultivated close to the ground using the traditional vite ad alberello method, recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage agricultural practice. Each season, the Donnafugata team bends over the vines, handpicking grapes, naturally drying them on mats, and meticulously destemming each one. “For every 100 liters of wine, we use 75 kilos of dried grapes. It’s a challenging process, but the reward is a sweet wine that even non-sweet wine lovers enjoy. That’s our greatest achievement.”
Production averages around 80,000 bottles a year, fluctuating between 40,000 and 100,000 depending on the vintage. The 2020 harvest, marked by the pandemic, tested the Donnafugata team’s unity: less socializing, more distance, but exceptional quality—a testament to their teamwork and passion.
Curious to learn more about Ben Ryé and the magic of Donnafugata? Discover the full story on the Donnafugata profile page, and explore all of the Donnafugata labels our team loves. Still hungry for more? Don't miss Lele Gobbi’s article for an inside look at this incredible Southern Italian wine estate. Sign up for our newsletter to get fresh recipes, wine news, and insights into Italian culture direct to your inbox!
