Today, my phone unexpectedly brought back a memory from exactly a year ago—a vivid, bittersweet photo capturing around thirty smiling faces gathered around a lavish table. That image isn’t just a snapshot but a powerful reminder of a warm, convivial evening in Milan, my beloved hometown. Together with friends, I organized a festive dinner at a local Chinese restaurant to express our heartfelt solidarity with the Chinese restaurateurs who so richly contribute to our city’s tapestry of flavors. The table was a mosaic of colors and aromas, filled with laughter, clinking glasses, and the intoxicating scent of authentic Chinese cuisine—a true celebration of community, culture, and the universal language of good food.
Yet, this joyful memory is set against a challenging backdrop. In early 2020, COVID-19 was still described in the media as the “China Virus,” a label that led to the near-emptying of Chinese restaurants in Milan by Italian patrons. The abrupt decline in customers hit these businesses hard, threatening livelihoods and dreams built over generations. This reaction, fueled by unfounded fears rather than science, exposed a deeper ambivalence within Milanese society towards its Chinese community—a community rooted in the city since the 1930s, when skilled workers arrived to energize the leather industry.
The Chinese community is revered for its legendary work ethic—a trait deeply respected in Lombardy. Yet, they have also endured persistent myths and prejudices, like the misconception that Chinese deaths go unregistered, when the truth is far simpler: many elders return home to China to spend their final years. Behind every dish and every gesture of hospitality is a story of resilience and cultural pride.
CHINESE RESTAURATEURS: MASTERS OF INNOVATION AND RESILIENCE
Under ordinary circumstances, Chinese restaurants in Milan are bustling with locals, drawn to both the authentic flavors and the inviting hospitality. The city’s Chinese entrepreneurs are true culinary chameleons, displaying remarkable flexibility over the last two decades. From the irresistible allure of sushi and bubble tea to the comforting embrace of ramen, these restaurateurs have seamlessly woven global trends into their own unique menus. The result? A vibrant dining scene where tradition meets innovation, and every meal is a fresh adventure for the palate.
When the COVID-19 crisis struck, Chinese restaurants in Milan were the first to feel its impact, but now they are poised for a triumphant comeback. As soon as restrictions eased in May, these venues set a gold standard for safety, drawing on hard-earned experience with past health crises like SARS and MERS. Their quick, organized response—mirrored in Chinatowns across the globe—has become a beacon of hope.
In Lombardy, the heart of Italian gastronomy, restaurants have just reopened—and anticipation is building. February 12th marks the arrival of Chinese New Year's Eve, a feast that brings together close family around an abundant table. While celebrations usually unfold in the homes of the eldest relatives, essential dishes—like fragrant chicken and glistening fish—take center stage. The latter, known as yu, is especially auspicious, symbolizing "abundance" and wishing all diners prosperity in the coming year. Each bite is steeped in tradition, hope, and the promise of new beginnings.
BUFFALO YEAR: RESILIENCE AND RENEWAL FOR THE CHINESE COMMUNITY
The year ahead, the Year of the Buffalo, carries a powerful message of patience and unwavering work ethic. In Chinese culture, the buffalo is the embodiment of perseverance, making this the ideal year for rebuilding and transformation. The symbolism couldn’t be more fitting as communities worldwide strive to recover and thrive.
After months of relying solely on takeout and delivery—offering some of the city’s most beloved meals—Mu Dim Sum is swinging open its doors with renewed energy. The acclaimed chef Chang Liu, previously celebrated for his innovative work at Serica (a dazzling fusion of Chinese and Italian haute cuisine), now leads the kitchen. At Mu Dim Sum, Liu is crafting a menu that’s both deeply rooted in Chinese tradition and boldly creative.
For New Year’s Eve, the restaurant is set to debut dishes that tantalize both the eyes and the taste buds: "A Bag of Gold a Day"—aromatic saffron-infused rice sautéed with plump scallops and luxurious XO sauce—evokes prosperity and good fortune. "Bright Prospects for a Gourmet Future" showcases exquisite dim sum, each bite bursting with flavor and culinary artistry. These dishes are more than food; they’re edible wishes for a brighter tomorrow.
CELEBRATE WITH DUMPLINGS: THE FLAVORS OF HOPE AND TOGETHERNESS
Another shining star of Milan’s Chinese dining scene, Bon Wei, continues to set the bar for fine Asian cuisine. Under the expert hand of chef Zhang Guoqing, the restaurant is charting an audacious new course—infusing its menu with the chef’s personal flair and focusing on premium ingredients. As chef Zhang explains, “In today’s China, traditional dishes are part of everyday life, often enjoyed at home or in relaxed eateries. But at top-tier restaurants, the focus shifts to menus that celebrate both local and international luxury ingredients—think truffles and foie gras—beautifully paired with exceptional wines.”
For Chinese New Year, expect a parade of symbolic, hope-filled dishes. One culinary highlight is the beloved Niángāo, or "New Year’s Rice Dumplings," whose name means “every year, more and more.” With their sweet, chewy texture and golden hue, they embody wishes for prosperity and abundance.
This yearning for good fortune is universal: in Italy, lentils grace the Cenone di Capodanno table, while in Spain, twelve grapes are savored at midnight, each representing a wish for the coming year. Yet this year, the wish that unites us all—across continents, tables, and traditions—is for one thing above all: good health.
Feeling your appetite awakened? Explore the culinary wonders of Mamablip’s Recipe Index for year-round inspiration, from quick weekday meals to show-stopping festive feasts. And if you’re ready to dive into the world of Italian wines, don’t miss the Mamablip Video Index, featuring wine tastings and guided explorations of Italy’s most unique wine regions.
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