Back in 2013, Fool Magazine—the ultimate trendsetting food authority for gourmet enthusiasts—conducted a poll among top celebrity chefs and influential voices in the culinary world. Their question: who is the world’s most underrated chef?
From this prestigious survey, two names sparkled. The first was Albert Adrià, famed as the creative force behind molecular gastronomy, a style that revolutionized high-end dining for years to come. The second was the brilliant Italian chef, Paolo Lopriore—a name praised by culinary icons like René Redzepi of **Noma**.
THE CHALLENGE OF STANDING ALONE
Paolo Lopriore’s reputation had already spread far and wide in Italy. He was celebrated by the late **Gualtiero Marchesi**, the pioneering father of modern Italian cuisine and Italy’s first chef to earn three **Michelin stars**. Marchesi, when asked about his most talented protégés, never failed to mention Lopriore.
Yet, Lopriore’s career has been anything but predictable. His path has been marked by bold choices and unexpected detours. Who can forget his dramatic departure from the historic **Certosa di Maggiano** hotel? Even after earning a Michelin star at **Il Canto**, the accolade was rescinded following guest protests—many preferred classic Tuscan indulgence over Lopriore’s avant-garde interpretations of Italian fine dining.
EXPLORING NEW FLAVORS: BITTERNESS AS AN ART FORM
Instead of serving up expected Tuscan classics, Lopriore challenged diners with dishes that were bold, sometimes confrontational. He championed the use of **bitter notes** long before the trend swept through the world via **New Nordic Cuisine**. His signature creations—like Snails in Green, Ravioli stuffed with bitter almonds, cream, peas, and ham, or Duck Breast with Gentian—showcase unique ingredients such as **Gentian**, a vibrant violet flower renowned for its intense bitterness and medicinal qualities.
Later, Lopriore’s journey took him to **Kitchen in Como** for a brief, impactful tenure, followed by a season at Milan’s **Tre Cristi**, where he introduced a more traditional approach. Here, his hallmark style emerged: technical mastery, and serving dishes at the center of the table to encourage sharing—a dining experience that builds connection.
Returning to his roots in **Appiano Gentile** (Como province), Lopriore opened a charming, intimate restaurant featuring a single dining room and a sun-drenched courtyard for warm days—a peaceful refuge for gastronomic exploration.
FAMILY HERITAGE AT THE HEART
Free from outside pressures, Lopriore embraced a convivial style of cooking deeply tied to his territory, with a special focus on **local freshwater fish**. The dining room is overseen by his mother, who offers genuine warmth even as she navigates the pronunciation of international ingredients—especially the Japanese elements that reflect Lopriore’s passion for global inspiration.
INCLUSIVE DINING WITH A DISTINCT IDENTITY
Lopriore’s vision is rooted in accessibility—his restaurant embodies the spirit of 0KM not just in ingredients but also in community. When an 11pm curfew was imposed, he launched a creative €35 menu inspired by the comforting Italian tradition of “pane e companatico” (bread and its companions): think generous main courses like **rice**, **polenta**, or **timballo di crespella**, matched with an array of delightful side dishes for building your own perfect bite.
Every ingredient tells a story of place. Lopriore is committed to using only **lake-caught fish**, boldly confronting the challenges of sourcing and preparation—lake fish are often overlooked in fine dining, but their distinctive flavor and the very act of fishing (more akin to hunting) bring a sense of adventure to the kitchen. He even forgoes red vegetables since they’re not locally grown, resulting in a cuisine that is delicately sweet and visually cool.
Now at the height of his career, it’s clear that Lopriore’s food isn’t about rebellion—it’s about authenticity. His dishes reflect the land, the season, and the genuine gestures of the cook, making every plate a true expression of its origins.
Craving more insider reviews and stories about Italy’s most fascinating restaurants and chefs? Don’t miss Sara Porro’s other captivating explorations of the Italian culinary scene. Discover her profile on San Brite, a Michelin-starred haven in **Cortina d’Ampezzo** known for luxurious hospitality and seasonal, locally-sourced creations.
Or head to the countryside near **Turin** for Rantan, a rustic farmhouse retreat serving up comfort and authentic flavors. Dive into all of Mamablip’s articles to immerse yourself in Italy’s world-class food and wine culture!
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