It may come as a surprise, but the name Ribolla consistently ranks among the most searched-for Italian grape varieties online. This intriguing trend speaks volumes about its growing curiosity among wine enthusiasts. Not only does Ribolla make waves on the web, but its popularity is also evident in the increasing number of bottles gracing supermarket shelves across Italy.
With this much attention, it’s no wonder that Ribolla Gialla wines have become a consumer favorite, enjoying consistently strong sales year after year.
The story of Ribolla Gialla begins in the lush, undulating landscapes of Friuli-Venezia Giulia in Northeastern Italy. Nestled between the provinces of Gorizia and Udine, this indigenous white grape flourishes. Among the region’s most passionate producers is the Gravner family, whose roots extend into nearby Slovenia. At the helm, Josko Gravner has dedicated his life to elevating the Ribolla Gialla grape, crafting wines that stand in stark contrast to mass-market offerings.
The synergy between Ribolla Gialla and Gravner has become so iconic that it nearly overshadows the estate’s lesser-known red wines. Yet today, a new chapter is unfolding as Mateja Gravner, representing the next generation, aims to broaden the perception of the Gravner winery beyond its famed whites.
Mateja is on a mission to correct the misconception—fueled by social media—that Gravner is exclusively a white wine producer. She is determined to highlight the estate’s dedication to both white and red winemaking traditions.
Recently, I had the privilege of spending a morning with Josko Gravner’s daughter, centering our exploration around Gravner’s underappreciated red wine—a hidden gem waiting to be discovered by true wine lovers.
A Singular Red: The Pignolo Marvel
At the Gravner estate, only one red wine remains in production: Breg. Famed reds of the past—like Rujno and Rosso Gravner—crafted from Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, are gradually giving way to a laser focus on Breg, a wine that champions the native Pignolo grape.
The winery in Oslavia does not plan to reintroduce Rujno until at least 2035, doubling down instead on perfecting their red expression of Pignolo, the only red varietal Josko Gravner has committed to cultivating alongside his beloved Ribolla Gialla.
The creation of Breg is a testament to patience and reverence for tradition. Fermentation with the grape skins occurs in wooden vats up to the 2005 vintage, followed by a unique maturation in underground clay amphorae starting in 2006. This ancient process, conducted without temperature controls and utilizing only native yeasts, honors centuries-old winemaking methods.
Next comes a patient aging: five years in oak barrels, then another five years or more in bottle. For a final touch steeped in tradition and mystique, Breg is bottled during the waning moon, without clarification or filtration—ensuring purity and authenticity in every glass.
These bold winemaking choices may seem radical, but for pioneers like Gravner, they are the natural path. After experimenting with international blends in the 1990s and exploring the bold techniques of California’s wine giants, Josko made a pivotal decision—to return to Friuli’s indigenous grapes and time-honored practices.
This shift also meant leaving behind modern stainless steel tanks in favor of traditional methods: long macerations and the use of large, buried terracotta amphorae, reminiscent of the age-old techniques from Georgia’s Kakheti region. This ancient winemaking heritage, dating back thousands of years, deeply inspired Gravner’s journey.
In keeping with nature’s rhythms, Gravner follows the “rule of seven”: just as our bodies regenerate every seven years, so too should wine be allowed ample time to evolve. Thus, Breg spends a year in amphora and six more years in large casks, unfolding layer by layer with patient maturity.
Gravner’s Commitment to Pignolo
The most recent Gravner Pignolo available is the 2007 vintage, meticulously aged for five years in casks and nine years in bottle. Previous vintages—2003, 2004, 2005, and 2006—are also prized by collectors. But what makes the Pignolo grape so special?
Pignolo is an ancient jewel of Friuli, with records dating back to the 14th century. Early documents trace its spread from the rolling hills of Rosazzo westward toward Udine, capturing the imagination of generations of winemakers.
Yet, in Oslavia today, Pignolo lacks official recognition under DOC or IGT designations—so Gravner’s Pignolo is simply labeled as table wine. The grape is highly sensitive to oidium fungus and was nearly extinct by the 19th century. Its revival was sparked by the rediscovery of ancient vines in the Abbey of Rosazzo, allowing passionate vintners like Gravner to bring it back to life.
Inspired by renowned wine critic Luigi Veronelli, Josko Gravner began his exploration of Pignolo in the early 1980s, planting his first vine cuttings in the 1990s. Today, the estate boasts 12,000 Pignolo vines, producing between 1,200 and 3,000 bottles per vintage, depending on the year.
These vines are spread across 15 hectares, which are gradually being enriched with gardens, trees, and ponds—fostering a vibrant ecosystem where local flora and fauna thrive. The first ecological pond in the area was created in the Runk vineyard, where both Ribolla and Pignolo vines find their natural home.
